Coil, CDI unit and flasher relay

I'm hoping that swapping the cdi unit and coil might cure my running problems. At least one report on the owners forum implicated the coil in problems like mine where the motor simply refuses to give above half throttle. Trouble is for both of these items you can't test them, you have to substitute and see if anything is better. The flasher is a separate issue... Seems that my indicators flash very fast, and in this model of bike the relay is located with the first two items inside the frame. This means that its conveniently replaced at the same time.

Start by removing both side covers.

Disconnect the battery and then remove the clamp screw that holds the retaining bracket and remove the battery

Unscrewing the bty retaining clamp. 

This exposes the battery tray

... which is removed by taking out the 2 10mm machine screws

The battery holder then comes off

Revealing the internal component holder that fixes the flasher relay and the CDI unit inside the frame. This is held by a screw at top and bottom on the rhs  and a stud that passes through the body and is secured with a larger flange nut on the lhs.

Internal components bracket, left and external bracket holding reg/rectifier and starter relay. The larger black box at extreme lhs is the cdi unit and the smaller box to the right and just above it is the flasher relay.

Central flange nut on lhs securing internal holder.

However, before this can be removed its necessary to remove the exterior bracket that holds the finned regulator/rectifier and starter relay, these share a top screw. This is held by a single 10mm screw. This bracket will then fold down. 

You can then remove the top and bottom bolts from the internal bracket on the rhs and the nut from the stud on the lhs  that secure the internal component bracket and lever this out of the frame.

Removing the rectifier bracket common screw

Both brackets will then hang on their wires.

The internal component bracket carries two boxes, each held on by a rubber clamp strip.. The larger of these is the cdi unit, the smaller is the flasher relay.

Both pull off their mounts and can be easily swapped for the replacement units. The flasher unit just pulls off but the CDI has a retaining clip that has to be depressed before the multiplug will come apart.

connections to both relays

Its hard to see the coil but this is attached to the inside of the frame at the top. Its just visible below at the top of the cavity with its two LT wire supply

Internal components removed, coil just visible inside the frame top right (green and white wires)

The coil is held on its own little bracket which is in turn secured to the bike by the upper of the two 10mm flange nuts seen below.

Removing this nut and the coil can be finagled out. Its necessary to disconnect the HT cap and feed the HT lead back into the frame to allow the coil to come backwards and out of the cut out... coil coming out...

... and here pulled through and out of the body. The spark plug cap unscrews from the end of the HT lead so that it can eventually be pulled right back through. Make a note of the route though as you have to feed the new one through the same route.

Coil now out, I found some cracking in the insulation around the HT lead entry point.

Cracked cover to coil/lead junction

Coil held in its bracket removed from frame

I replaced the coil using a Chinese copy at £7.95. It fitted perfectly and here its been replaced in the bracket and the bracket replaced in the frame.

Replacement coil fitted

Reinserting the internal component holder.

Refitting was pretty straightforward, I found no problems although re-routing the HT lead was a bit fiddly.

Road test showed... WOW a great improvement! I cant tell which of these components was at fault but owing to the cracking on the cover I suspect the coil- or maybe just the HT lead itself. Unfortunately the HT lead isn't replaceable and the price of fitting a joiner, new lead and cap is about the same as a complete replacement coil which obviously gives a neater job so I went for that. I was able to get a genuine Honda Old stock cdi unit for £10 so overall a very cheap repair and I'm impressed with the reult. Asd a bonus my indicators also work better now, flashing slower and more quietly.